Size matters


Since I started surfing I always wanted to get a smaller board. I reached now 5’8” and I took it out on any kind of waves. Even if it was tiny and shitty. Only when it was almost unsurfable I used a longboard. That was always super fun. All the guys with a shortboard hardly got a wave and I could dominated the line up. But I never gave my longboard a chance to surf with me in overhead waves.

During my last trip to Lanzarote, Canary Island, I had some trouble at the beginnig to have good surfs with my shortboard. Maybe it was because my paddle strength wasn’t enough or maybe because the waves weren’t really good or maybe it was my mindset at this time. There could be hundrets of excuses I guess. Normally I don’t really have a problem with bigger waves but this time I wasn’t going for the overhead waves. I got a little frustrated because the waves were actually really good.

One day it was such strong offshore wind that it was hardly surfable. When I went through the village where we stayed I passed the little surf schools along the main road and saw all the big beginner boards. I didn’t bring my longboard to Lanzarote so I came up with the idea just to rent one and have a couple of fun surfs.

It took a little while until I figured out how to surf a 9 foot surfboard on bigger waves and how to even get out to the line up through a 50 meters beach break impact zone. But it was the whole hassle worth it. I had one of the most enjoying surfs in a long time. It’s an incredible feeling to catch (in my opinion) huge waves so early and cruise along.

After a few sessions I had my confidence back and when I got back on my shortboard I surfed like I used to or maybe even better. So if you ever get stuck with your surfing switch board, take out a longboard and have fun! Longboards a not just for the flat days! 😉


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